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Modern Makeup: Mass Market, Counterculture and Self-Expression

Ninety years in which makeup became an industry, a battleground and, eventually, something people chose for themselves.

The essayMass Market, Counterculture and Self-Expression

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A modern collage: a woman with luminous skin, graphic liner and a bold matte lip, beside a row of foundation shades running deep to fair, a worn lipstick bullet and a torn contact sheet.
Commissioned illustration
1930 – TodaySelf-Expression
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The modern era turned makeup into an industry with seasons, a counterculture to argue with, and — after decades in which complexion products were formulated almost exclusively for white skin — a shade-range standard that only became general in the late 2010s.

  • Screen-LedFilm, then television, then the front-facing camera.
  • Sold as FashionColour became seasonal, and seasons became marketing.
  • ContestedFeminism, counterculture and identity all argued with it.
  • Shade RangeWhose skin a foundation is made for became the central question.

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